Monday, October 31, 2005

 

ATL = Patisserie Withdrawal (Part I)


Yowzers! Check out those pastries!


Yes, failthful readers, this is a new post. I apologize for the delay, and appreciate your collective sighs of relief that you finally have something new to procrastinate with. Knowing how much there is to tell you about my weekend in NYC really killed me this past week; I mean, it is such a daunting task, writing about it all, so I waited to write not only to build excitement in your tummies, but also to hopefully forget some details (so as not to write a novel length post). Let's get to it, then, shall we?

We must begin at the beginning, of course.

Friday night, 11:30pm, 87th St. between Lex and Park: Maxine arrives at my apartment, and I whisk her away for a late nite snack, New York City style. We walk over to La Mia’s Pizzeria on 88th and 3rd and split one pepperoni and one mushroom slice between the two of us. Oh how I love a good NY style thin crust pizza!


I’m telling you, the combination of a crusty-bottomed, fresh from the oven, one topping Yankee pizza is just unbeatable. The cost to pleasure ratio is off the charts, and not even my favorite quattro stagioni can warm my heart the way La Mia’s - Ray’s – Totonno’s – Lombardi’s can. Damn, sometimes I miss home. (This is my mom’s cue to give me the Jewish-mom guilt trip she is so famous for: “Eh, Lali, you never tell me you mees me, sew haw can you say dat you mees de peetza? Are you crayzee? Haw darrrrrrre you!”)

Since Tasti-D was already closed (time check: 1am), we headed over to compare the sweets at Hot & Crusty to those at Old Fashioned Doughnuts (both on the corner of 86th and Lexington), two locations that are frequented by taxi drivers on their late night breaks. Maxine and I settled on the doughnuts, debated between custard, chocolate, honey glaze and marble for a good five minutes, then chose this one:



The graffiti in the background makes things seem so authentic, doesn’t it?

It took us a while to dig out the change from our slim fitting pants, so a doughnut-eating taxi driver standing nearby offered us two quarters he had handy. To his fiddy-cent contribution we added another dime, and went happily along our way, straight to bed.

Saturday morning we woke up and arrived to Payard right on schedule. It took us a moment to realize that in order to sit and eat, you must order from a waiter and not from the women behind the glass display cases. It was a good wait, however, since we had enough time to strategize and figure out what we were going to order.

We started with coffee and a café au lait, a sugar brioche ($2.50) and a cannele ($3.25) (the best thing I have tasted this year), and then ordered two Payard signature pastries:


Thats the “Sweet Relief,” made of mango mousse, pineapple parfait, roasted pineapple and Swiss meringue.




And this is the “Sevilla,” made of pain de genes with apple Tatin, caramel mousse and fleur de sel, each priced at $5.50.

Once you get over the wow factor, it’s interesting how you can really taste all the different components in each pastry. I just think that Maxine and I didn’t really like all the components, all together. For example, she wasn’t a fan of the roasted pineapple or the meringue, and I thought the caramel mousse was a little too caramelly. For my parents, I brought back the “Passion Fruit Tart” (passion fruit cream, raspberry coulis, white sacher biscuit, topped with an Italian meringue on a sable dough crust), the “Lemon Tart” (self-explanatory, for once), and a cannele, and they all went over very well. Especially that damned cannele! Why can’t I find a cannele in Atlanta? WHY?!

Well, we left the place with a snack in hand: a one pound box of petit fours, both soft (apricot financier, vanilla and almond financier, pistachio and chocolate financier) and hard (cinnamon cookies, vanilla and chocolate checkerboard, star cookies, chocolate pistachio cookies, palmier and shredded almond cookies), which we munched on during our numerous subway rides around town.

On our walk from the 59th street subway station to Fauchon, we passed the newly-opened Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier Bruxelles on 58th and Park for a taste.

At $3 a pop, we each chose two chocolates (I had a palets fin of honey filled dark chocolate and lemon-basil milk chocolate) and continued down Park Ave.


Part of our strategy was to get the best item at each eatery, so as not to fill up on too much of anything. Thus, at Fauchon, we bought a croissant to share as well as a few pieces of pate de fruit, which is a fruit gel square coated with granulated sugar. Highlights included passion fruit, chestnut and fig. Check out their candied fruit display…


Our next stop on the itinerary was H&M, but on our way there we (unfortunately) noticed that the Hallo Berlin cart was not at its usual corner. Instead, we picked up a snack of roasted chestnuts from another street vendor in order to occupy our saddened hearts, and spent the next 2 hours shopping for clothes.



Since we were both full from all the sweets we had consumed this far, we thought that perhaps we skip the Lower East Side leg of our tour since Dean & Deluca (Rockefeller Center) typically stocks up with doughnuts from the Doughnut Plant. D&D only carried pumpkin flavored, which I wasn’t so partial towards, so we decided to continue on downtown.

Yeahhhh, but no. On our way to the subway, we spotted La Maison Du Chocolat, where we picked up two of the yummiest French macaroons EVER.

And there is so much more to tell you about what we ate next! But that is enough for one day. Keep a lookout for Part II coming up later this week!


Thursday, October 20, 2005

 

NYC Sneak Peek

I’m off to a wedding in the city this weekend.

Ugh.

I really not amped about this at all. I mean, weddings suck to be at as is, unless you are close friends with either the bride or groom and have other friends attended the ceremony, so to add on top of that a two hour flight (roundtrip), not having a dress that I want to wear, and pretending to remember far-far-removed family members, I guess you could say that for this I feel as though I deserve the daughter of the year award. I’m still trying to work my brain around why, precisely, I’ve been asked to haul all the way to Westchester County, NY for this event, and why, exactly, would my presence add any value whatsoever.

To offset Sunday’s schlep, however, I’ve taken advantage of Maxine’s visit to create a fun filled Saturday. With her input (chocolate and pastry shops) and my NYC “musts” (street food), I’ve put together a schedule that started out as a shopping strategy but quickly turned into a foodie’s dream day come true.

Here’s our itinerary:

10:00: Payard Patisserie (74th and Lex): 4,5,6 to 77th / for some pastries, coffee and savory hors d’oeurves


10:45: Fauchon (53rd and Park): 4,5,6 to 59th / for some tea and croissants

11:30: H&M (51st and 5th): Walk / for clothing and accessories

1:45: Hallo Berlin (Stand 54th and 5th), (Restaurant 626 10th Ave at 45th) or Soup Nazi (54th and 8th) or both: E to 50th St or walk / for bratwurst, a Berliner, some cabbage and perhaps even a beer

2:30 Yatagan Kebab House (104 Macdougal btwn. Bleeker and W3rd): A,C,E,F,B,D,V,S at W 4th / for some kick butt doner

3:15: The Doughnut Plant (379 Grand St btwn Essex and Norfolk): F at Delancey St. / for pistachio crusted doughnuts

3:30: Gus’s Pickles (87 Orchard St. btwn Broome and Delancy): Walk / for full sour pickles the size of….

3:45: Il Laboratorio del Gelato (95 Orchard): Walk / for green grape gelato


4:30 Milk & Cookies Bakery (19 Commerce St & 7th Ave S. off Bleeker): F to W 4th St. / for oatmeal cookies and hot chocolate


5:00: Bouley Bakery and Market (130 W Bway and Duane St): 1,2,3,A,C at Chambers / for “Granny Smith Apple Mille-Feuille with Calvados Toffee, Meyer Lemon” or a “Pear Rosemary Timbale with Lime and Greek Yogurt”

6:30: Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven (350 Hudson St. btwn King and Charlton): 1,9 at Canal or C/E at Spring / for chocolate and truffles


Look. Don’t be jealous. I even planned out how to get from place to place….I’m the biggest dork, I’m telling you.
So if any of you out there are going to be in New York this weekend, please feel free to stop on by at any leg of the itinerary – UES, Midtown, LES or the Village. It’s all good in any ‘hood.

Hopefully the endorphins that will be released in my body due to all the chocolate that I’ll consume will improve my mood on Sunday…


Friday, October 14, 2005

 

Recipe Sabotager

We have family friends here in Atlanta who invite my sister and I to Shabbat and holiday dinners on a regular basis. Basically, since our parents still live in NYC, they've adopted us to a certain extent and make sure we’re taken care of. Especially during the holidays.

On this regular basis, the mom of the house cooks (or defrosts) her time tested arsenal of dinner dishes. Every once and a while she’ll throw in something different, like roasted chicken or honey mustard salmon, but the real core of the meal is always comprised of brisket, stewed cabbage, rice and onion casserole. Onion casserole. So for weeks I've been asking for the recipe for this famed onion casserole. If you didn't know that it was an onion casserole, you would never have guessed it was an onion casserole. It's that yummy: a little mushy inside, a little crispy on top, and I always get seconds. By some miracle, my sister happened to get the recipe and sent it to me just as I was trying to figure out what I’d be making for Yom Kippur’s before-fast meal. It made the cut, and here we are. Right below you’ll find the recipe…

Onion Casserole
(courtesy of Hasia Levine)

3 big onions finely chopped
3/4 cup shredded cheese (Mexican 4 cheese)
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup vegetable oil (not olive)
4 eggs
1 1/2 cup all purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
pepper to taste
1 tsp. chicken bouillon powder to taste

Mix all ingredients together and pour into 8X11 casserole dish sprayed with Pam. Sprinkle additional cheese on top. Bake at 350 for 40-50 minutes until golden brown (check it after 35-40). Cool, slice and serve.

I prepped the ingredients as instructed, measured everything carefully, baked appropriately, sliced on the diagonal and…

…noticed that I could still distinguish the onion pieces from the casserole stuff. I had failed in reaching the non-oniony consistency of Hasia’s onion casserole and was severely disappointed. The taste was all there, but none of the texture.

The thing you have to understand is that when it comes to finely dicing an onion, I am a champ. I will venture to bet that if you (or anyone) and I went head to head, mincing all these damn onions, I’d take you down faster than you could say santoku. Thus by extending this logic, there is no way possible that Hasia’s mince could be finer than mine. Because of my confidence in my mince (and notice that the instructions were to “finely chop”) I can’t help but to think that I was given misleading instructions.

Was this on purpose? Was this an error of word usage? Was this a hint to use a food processor? I don’t know. All I know that this kind of thing happens more often than not. The “oh sure I’ll give you my recipe” line followed by a serious culinary disappointment, and then the “she must have forgotten to tell me to add the x before the y with a dash of z.”
Recipe sabotaging, I call it. It sucks, we’ve all been victim to it and yet we’ve all done it and continue to do so. Some people use the excuse that they take no measurements due to it being a family recipe that they know by heart, by look and by taste; others just choose to leave out a crucial ingredient or a necessary step in the cooking process. Wherever the error comes from, it sucks. If you don’t want to share your recipe to begin with, just say so. Don’t be such a tease.

Monday, October 10, 2005

 

I'll Get You, My Fritti




Well, hi, ya'll. I'm back. It's been a while and I apologize, and I'll promise it won't happen again. At least, not to this extent. We've had a busy two weeks here at at Casa Peled, with the eating out of cupboards marathon and my parents coming to visit for the new year. I do, however, have a few new interesting things lined up for you this week, the most important one being my preparation for Yom Kippur's before-fast meal coming up this Wednesday. I'm hoping to impress you with my mastery of Jewish cuisine (I still have yet to figure out a menu and who'll be reaping the rewards of my culinary effort), but I'll keep you posted. And now back to business...PIZZA!

A couple of weeks ago Charlotte, Karen, Sarah and I met up for a mid-week dinner. We wanted to pick a restaurant near Char's place, with her bum knee and all, so Fritti was a refreshing and logical option. A while back I wrote about Sotto Sotto; well, Fritti is that restaurant's little sister -- they share both owner and wood burning pizza oven.

It's not easy finding a good pie that rivals those I consumed most of the time while studying in Florence; a super thin crust, fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella di bufala or fior de latte, the list goes on. But the quick-glance, litmus test of whether or not a restaurant has even a fighting chance is if their menu offers a pizza "Quattro Stagioni." The "four seasons" in the pie, pictured above, refers to the mushrooms, artichoke hearts, olives and prosciutto that it is made of. And this is, in my opinion, the king of all pizzas -- you just can't beat this combination. And Fritti's pizza di quattro stagioni kicked some major ass, if I may say so myself.

Karen picked out the cheeseless "Frutti di Mare," pictured above, and she gave it good reviews as well, despite the overwhelming amount of garlic that was sprinkled over the sauce but under the seafood.

So, aside from Charlotte's injury, everything was just about perfect. If Fritti was around the corner and offered my signature pizza for less than what they're charging ($14), I'd be eating take out from here at least once a week. Fo' sho'.

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